Spinach Gnocchi with Lamb Ragu

Spinach Gnocchi with Lamb Ragu Recipe from Abruzzo.

This homemade spinach gnocchi with lamb ragu is an incredibly hearty and flavourful dish based on a recipe from Abruzzo in Central Italy. It’s perfect for Sundays and holidays, particularly Easter when lamb is on the menu both here in Italy and abroad.

Sorcetti verde con ragu di agnello.

Known as ‘sorcetti’ or ‘surgitt’ verde in the local dialect, these spinach gnocchi are a traditional potato and spinach dumpling from the Teramo province in Abruzzo, Central Italy. In reality, sorcetti are pretty much the same as other types of potato and spinach gnocchi. They are made with potatoes, spinach, flour and eggs. And, of course, there is also a version without spinach.

What exactly are sorcetti/surgitt?

The main difference between sorcetti and other types of potato gnocchi is the size and shape. The word sorcetti or surgitt means little mice in the local dialect. I guess this is a reference to the size and shape of these gnocchi.  Traditionally these spinach gnocchi are usually quite small but more elongated than other types of gnocchi.

I have seen recipes in which these gnocchi are cut on the bias and are only 2cm in length. Other recipes call for them to be longer. I actually made them bigger than is traditional because I like them that way. I think mine look like little mice!! But, you can make them smaller.

In her book ‘The Encyclopedia of Pasta’, Oretta Zanini De Vita says that these gnocchi can also be found in Le Marche. There, they are called sorcetti pelosi meaning hairy mice! The version from Le Marche is often made with polenta in the dough. And they sometimes fry them! According to Oretta, the use of animal names for types of pasta also indicated poor food of little value.

The lamb ragu.

Here in Northern Italy, lamb is mostly only eaten at Easter. However, in central and Southern Italian regions it’s popular year-round. This is probably because the climate in the North is more conducive to dairy farming and cattle rearing. Whereas, the Southern regions have more ovine and caprine farming as a result of the drier climate and mountainous and rugged landscape.

Abruzzo has a long tradition of sheep farming and the countryside is dotted with herds of sheep and goats. Lamb is a popular and staple meat. The people of Abruzzo cook it in different ways, including stewed and eaten with polenta or pasta. This spinach gnocchi with lamb ragu is just one example of the many delicious local recipes for lamb.

The original recipe for this lamb ragu calls for lamb meat known as ‘castrato’ in Italian. In fact, many central and Southern lamb dishes are made with castrato. In short, although you can find it translated as mutton, castrato is the meat from castrated male sheep or lambs aged anywhere between 5 months and 2 years. Meat from animals that are under a year old is also referred to as ‘castrato di agnello’ (lamb castrato).

Castrato isn’t easy to find here in the North. So, I used a piece of lamb leg. I think leg is good because it’s easy to cut into small cubes. Shoulder would also work well.

Other ingredients for these spinach gnocchi with lamb ragu.

Apart from the lamb, this ragu has just a little lardo (cured pork back fat not lard), tomatoes and tomato passata (tomato puree), onion, garlic, rosemary, red wine and peperoncino (red chili pepper). Some other recipes for lamb ragu from Abruzzo include carrots and celery and other herbs like sage, thyme and bay leaves. Of course, you can add these other herbs and veggies if you prefer.

As I mentioned above, the spinach gnocchi are made with spinach which has been wilted, drained and finely chopped as well as flour, potatoes and egg.

Making sorcetti with lamb ragu.

Since the ragu needs up to 2 hours to cook, it’s best to start with that. You can make the spinach gnocchi while the ragu is simmering! Alternatively, you can also make the ragu a day or so in advance. Like many stewed meat recipes, it actually tastes even better the next day!

The spinach gnocchi don’t take so long to make. You’ll need to wilt the spinach, drain it and chop it first as it has to cool down. The important thing is to get the spinach as dry as possible after cooking it. After draining it, I often put the spinach in a fine tea towel and squeeze the water out.

The potatoes also need to be cooked before in boiling salted water until tender. The main difficulty in making gnocchi is having the right potatoes. Potatoes which are too watery will require more flour and the result will be ‘gummy’ gnocchi! This is also why potatoes for gnocchi are boiled with the skin on. Otherwise, they can absorb water whilst cooking.

What are the best potatoes for gnocchi?

In Italian supermarkets, potatoes are labelled as suitable for gnocchi! Obviously, that isn’t so outside of Italy. I often use Russet potatoes, which are the most popular for gnocchi here. But, you can also use Desiree potatoes or even King Edwards. This time, I used potatoes from the Sila mountains in Calabria. These are my favourite Italian potatoes. Sila potatoes are high in starch and low in moisture, exactly what you need for gnocchi!

Making your spinach gnocchi.

When making these spinach gnocchi you need to make the dough whilst the potato is still warm. Italians use a potato ricer to purée the potato. I’ve discovered that you can actually put the unpeeled potato into the ricer and the skin won’t pass through the holes when you press it. So, no need to peel the potatoes to make your gnocchi.

If the potatoes are large, cut them in half before pressing them through the ricer. However, if you don’t have a ricer, you have to peel the still warm potatoes and then mash them.

Once you have the potato puree ready in a bowl, you then need to add the chopped spinach, eggs and flour and mix everything together into a dough. Then turn the dough out onto a floured pastry board and knead it a little. But, not too much. I use durum wheat semolina flour for dusting as this works really well to prevent the dough sticking to the board or your hands.

The dough can be quite soft and a little sticky. But, add a little more flour if it's too wet. Use a tablespoon (or a teaspoon) to ‘cut’ off enough dough for one gnocchi and shape it by rolling it between the palms of your hands. Place the ready gnocchi on a well-floured tray or sheet of baking paper until you have finished making them all. You then cook the gnocchi in boiling salted water. Once they rise to the surface, remove with a slotted spoon and add to the ragu.

Let me know what you think.

I think this is a great Sunday lunch or holiday dish. I will probably be adding it to my Easter menu, depending on whether we have guests or not. Normally we have a large leg of lamb and all my hubby's family round the table! But, if there's just the two of us (due to covid-19 restrictions) this would be perfect.

If you do try this spinach gnocchi with lamb ragu, I’d love to hear what you think. Please write a comment here on the blog or post a comment on the Pasta Project Facebook page.

Your feedback means a lot to me!

Buon Appetito!

Other recipes from Abruzzo to try!

1. Baked fazzoletti with homemade pasta sheets
2. Fried sagne with chickpeas
3. Pasta with saffron and pancetta
4. Spaghetti with tuna carbonara

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