Pasta alla Gricia (Authentic Roman Recipe)

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Pasta alla Gricia is a Roman recipe of very ancient origins. In fact, according to food historians, this recipe was invented around 400 AD and was a typical dish served in the taverns of Ancient Rome. It’s also often referred to as white Amatriciana!

When in Rome, the four pasta dishes that you are most likely to find in any trattoria or osteria (tavern) are Carbonara, Cacio e Pepe, Amatriciana and alla Gricia. Interestingly, the first 3 have become very well-known and popular in other countries too. The last recipe, pasta alla Gricia, has somehow escaped the culinary limelight.

This is surprising given it’s actually the oldest of these Roman pasta recipes and considered to be the original recipe from which the other 3 recipes developed. Think about it! Add some eggs to this dish and you have a carbonara. Add tomatoes and you have amatriciana. Take away the guanciale and it becomes cacio e pepe!

History

Like other classical Italian recipes, the exact origins alla gricia are uncertain. Some believe that the recipe originally came from a town called Griciano, from where its popularity spread to Rome and the rest of Lazio.

Many think that this dish started as a meal eaten by the shepherds of the area as it was made from pasta, cheese and cured pork. These were all things that the shepherds could carry around with them for days as they grazed their sheep.

Interestingly, Griciano is not far from Amatrice, another town that has become well-known for its much-loved pasta recipe invention, l’Amatriciana. However, pasta alla gricia pre-dates l’Amatriciana by centuries because tomatoes weren’t used in the Italian kitchen until 1800s.

Invented by bakers!

Another theory on the origins of pasta alla gricia is that this dish was invented by bakers who came from Germany or Switzerland, especially from the canton of Grisons. The Romans called these people ‘grigioni’. The grigioni were specialized in bread-making. In fact, they were the only bakers in Rome to be called ‘maestri dell’arte bianca’ (white art masters).

Food legend says that the Grigioni spent most of their time in the shops where they worked, ate and slept. Over time, they are believed to have turned to pork curing. And, one of the meals that they prepared was ‘alla gricia’.

Ingredients

Guanciale: Guanciale is a cured pork jowl or cheek and is the star ingredient of Pasta alla Gricia. It's traditionally rubbed with salt, pepper, and spices, then hung to cure for at least three weeks, giving it a strong and intense flavor. Its high-fat content is rendered to create a rich, savory base for the sauce. This rendered fat from the guanciale is what gives this dish its exceptional flavor.
Pecorino Romano: This sharp, salty cheese is a key ingredient in Roman pasta dishes. Pecorino Romano helps thicken the sauce while adding a lot of flavor. For the most authentic taste, use freshly grated Pecorino Romano. If Pecorino Romano is unavailable you can use other types of Pecorino or Parmigiano Reggiano.
Pasta: Traditionally, Pasta alla Gricia is made with either spaghetti or rigatoni. You could use other types of pasta but for a traditional Roman pasta alla Gricia stick with spaghetti or rigatoni.
Black Pepper: Freshly ground black pepper is a must for Pasta alla Gricia. It adds a subtle heat and spicy aroma that balances the richness of the guanciale and Pecorino. Be generous with the pepper to enhance the dish’s overall flavor.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Although the rendered fat from guanciale provides much of the richness, a small amount of extra virgin olive oil is used to start the cooking process. It adds a layer of richness and helps to crisp up the guanciale.

Note on Authenticity:

Pasta alla Gricia is traditionally made with just these four ingredients: guanciale, Pecorino Romano, pasta, and black pepper. Despite the simplicity, the dish is incredibly flavorful due to the quality and harmony of its components.

Some variations may include additions like red chili pepper (peperoncino), onions, garlic, or herbs, but these are not part of the original recipe. Chili peppers, for instance, arrived in Italy from South America with Spanish explorers and are not traditionally included. However, there's a similar recipe from Umbria which is really gricia with red onions known as pasta alla cipollara.

To fully appreciate the authentic Roman flavor, I recommend preparing the dish with only the classic ingredients first before adding additional ingredients.

Ingredients for pasta alla gricia recipe.

Expert Tips

Use Italian Guanciale: I highly recommend making the effort to find authentic Italian guanciale for this dish. Its unique rich flavor is an important aspect of pasta gricia. You can typically find guanciale at Italian specialty stores, gourmet delis, or online.

Use a Large Sauté Pan: Be sure to use a large sauté pan for this dish. You need plenty of space to easily mix or toss the pasta with the guanciale and sauce. As you toss the pasta, the starches released from the pasta will help thicken and emulsify the sauce.

Save the Pasta Water: Reserve a cup of pasta water before draining. The starchy water is essential for emulsifying the rendered guanciale fat and Pecorino Romano which creates the smooth, creamy sauce. Add it gradually to control the sauce’s consistency.

Cheese and Pepper: Remove the skillet from the heat before adding the Pecorino Romano and freshly ground black pepper. This prevents the cheese from separating and ensures it melts evenly into the sauce. Be generous with the pepper—it balances the richness of the guanciale.

Step by Step Instructions

1. Preheat a frying pan or iron skillet, then add the extra virgin olive oil and guanciale.

Small slices of guanciale in frying pan.

2) Fry the strips of guanciale in the skillet until they're crisp and golden.

Preference: The level of crispiness is up to personal preference; some prefer the fat to remain soft I prefer it crispy.

3) As the guanciale cooks, fill a separate pot with water and place it over high heat for the pasta. Once it starts to boil, add salt, then let the water return to a boil. Cook the pasta in the boiling salted water until it's al dente, following the package instructions for timing. Before draining the pasta, set aside a cup of the pasta water for later use.

4) Stir in about a ⅓ cup of the reserved pasta water into the skillet with the guanciale, mixing until it's combined. This starchy water will combine with the rendered fat from the guanciale to form a 'sauce'.

5) Lower the heat on the skillet, then add the cooked pasta to the skillet with the guanciale.

Cooked spaghetti and guanciale in frying pan.

6) Stir the pasta to ensure it's well incorporated with the sauce. If the sauce appears too dry, add a splash more of the reserved pasta water to thin it out. If the sauce is too thin, allow it to reduce on the stove for a minute or so.

Note: The sauce will thicken slightly in the next step when the Pecorino cheese is added.

Spaghetti and guanciale that has been mixed together.

7) Remove the skillet from the heat, add half of the grated Pecorino cheese and some ground black pepper. Stir well to combine.

Adding Pecorino to the spaghetti and guanciale.

8) Serve the pasta immediately, with a final sprinkling of the remaining grated Pecorino cheese on top.

Storage and Leftovers

Pasta alla Gricia is much better enjoyed fresh, as the sauce and texture is at its best right after cooking. However, if you have leftovers, store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. The sauce will thicken as it cools, due to the starches in the pasta and the rendered fat from the guanciale.

When reheating, it’s best to gently reheat the pasta in a pan over medium-low heat. Add a splash of water to loosen the sauce and bring back its creamy texture. Stir gently to avoid breaking the pasta and heat until thoroughly warmed. You can also reheat it in the microwave, covered, stirring occasionally to ensure even heating.

FAQs

Can I substitute the guanciale with other types of meat?

While guanciale is traditional and provides a specific flavor, you can substitute it with pancetta or a good quality bacon. However, this will alter the authentic taste of the dish.

Can I use a different cheese instead of Pecorino?

Pecorino Romano is traditional in this dish and adds a uniquely sharp and tangy flavor, but you could substitute it with another hard, aged cheese like Parmigiano Reggiano.

Can I add other ingredients to the dish?

Traditional Pasta alla Gricia is made with only a few ingredients to let their flavors shine. That said, some people do enjoy adding ingredients like onions or garlic for additional flavors, though this isn't traditional. I always recommend trying the traditional version first!

What type of pasta is best to use for Pasta alla Gricia?

Typically, spaghetti or rigatoni is used for Pasta alla Gricia in Rome. However, you can use any type of pasta you prefer.

More Traditional Roman Recipes:

If you make this pasta alla Gricia recipe, I’d love to hear how it turns out and if you liked it. So, please leave a comment here on the blog or on The Pasta Project Facebook page.

Looking forward to hearing from you!

Buon appetito!