How to make Tuscan testaroli pancake pasta.

Said to be the oldest known type of pasta, Tuscan testaroli is a unique spongy pasta from the Lunigana region. It’s sometimes referred to as a pancake pasta because of its flavor, texture and the way it’s made. Often served with basil pesto, this rustic ancient comfort food is easy to make and delicious as a snack, a first course (primo in Italian) or a meal.

What is Testaroli Pasta?

Testaroli is an ancient type of maltagliati pasta that food historians say dates back to Etruscan times. However, it is still very popular in the areas it comes from hundreds of years later. This special Italian pasta has a spongy texture and a rather neutral wheat flavor. 

Italians make testaroli with a batter of flour, water and salt which is first cooked on a hot flat cast iron or terracotta surface like a pancake or flat bread. After cooking, the testaroli is cut into pieces, usually diamond shapes, and then served as is or cooked further in a large pot of salted water like regular pasta.

Where does testaroli pasta come from?

Testaroli is a traditional dish in Southern Liguria and the northern part of Tuscany, in particular the provinces of La Spezia in Liguria and Massa Carrara in Tuscany. Together these areas form an ancient historical territory known as the Lunigiana.

The name of this region came from the Roman town of Luni, which was once the main urban settlement on the Northern Tuscan coast. 

What does the word testaroli mean?

The name Testaroli comes from ‘testo’ (plural 'testi') an ancient cast iron or terracotta flat pan which was the cooking device used to make this pasta. I have discovered that it’s possible to buy cast iron ‘testi’ from a couple of companies in Pontremoli.

Pontremoli is a small town in Massa Carrara, where you can find testaroli on the menu in almost every restaurant and where they still make it using a cast iron testo heated over a large wood fire (usually beech wood). These particular cast iron vessels have huge domed lids. 

The local chefs heat the testo over a live wood fire until blazing hot. Then, they pour the batter into the vessel off the heat and cover it with the hot lid. Apparently, there's enough residual heat in the testo and lid to cook the pancake throughout. They don’t flip it or set it back over the heat.

Watch testaroli being made the traditional way in this video from Pasta Grannies.

Ingredients and how to cook testaroli at home.

Testaroli has very few ingredients. In fact, all you need is soft wheat flour, salt and tepid water.

Step by step instructions.

1. Sift the flour into a large bowl add a pinch of salt. Then slowly add the water whilst using a whisk to mix into a smooth thick batter.

2. Heat a cast-iron skillet or non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add a teaspoon of extra virgin olive oil and spread with a clean paper towel or a cloth over the bottom of the skillet. Add a ladle of batter to the centre of the hot pan and quickly tilt the pan so the batter spreads and covers the bottom.

Chef's Tip: Spreading the batter has to be done very quickly as it starts to set very fast.

3. Cook the ‘pancake’ for a few minutes on each side until it begins to brown slightly. Transfer the testaroli pancake to a plate and repeat with the rest of the batter.

4. Once your testaroli are cool enough, cut them into diamond shaped pieces of about 5cm (2in) each side using scissors, a pizza cutter or a sharp knife. Of course, you can make them smaller, and not all pieces will be exactly the same.

5. Put a pot of water on to boil add salt once it starts to boil and bring to a boil again. Cook the testaroli in the boiling water for about 2 minutes.

6. In the meantime, place some pesto in a pan big enough to hold the testaroli. Transfer the testaroli to the pan with the pesto and carefully mix together. Plate immediately with some grated pecorino and fresh basil leaves.

What can I serve testaroli pasta with?

Traditionally, testaroli is served with just fresh basil leaves, olive oil and pecorino or Parmigiano blended into a kind of pesto sauce or basil pesto alla Genovese. I used a ready-made basil pesto for this testaroli recipe, but you can make your own pesto instead. You can also serve testaroli with just olive oil and a sprinkle of Parmigiano cheese, a Ligurian walnut sauce or even a mushroom sauce.

What to do with leftovers.

Leftover testaroli dressed with pesto can be kept sealed in the fridge for up to a couple of days. You can reheat with a little olive oil in a skillet (delicious!) or in the microwave.

FAQs

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Let me know what you think.

We really enjoyed making and eating this ancient pasta dish! Testaroli pancake pasta makes a delicious snack or light meal. I'm sure you'll love it once you try it!

If you make this recipe, do let me know what you think. You can write a comment here on the blog or on the Pasta Project Facebook page. Your feedback is much appreciated!

Buon appetito!

Other traditional rustic pasta and gnocchi recipes to try!

• Chestnut maltagliati with mushrooms.
• How to make blecs buckwheat pasta .
• Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinese.
• Italian teardrop dumplings.
• Strangolapreti spinach and bread gnocchi.