Enjoy this authentic Venetian duck ragu recipe from my home in Veneto. This is a duck ragu brimming with rich flavors that pairs wonderfully with different types of pasta. It's an excellent dish for batch cooking for family gatherings and special occasions. Buon appetito!
History
Duck ragu with bigoli is a traditional dish here in Veneto where I live. In fact, if you visit the region you are bound to find it in many restaurants. It is also often cooked by the Venetians on holidays or feast days.
Bigoli looks like a very thick spaghetti and is often eaten with various fat-rich sauces; the most well-known bigoli recipe is with duck ragu. In the past, the traditional recipe for this dish involved cooking the pasta in a fatty broth in which a young duck had been boiled.
The Venetians then made a sauce with flavored butter and the offal of the duck, which they ate with the bigoli. The duck itself was eaten after.
A bigoli with duck ragu festival!
This duck pasta dish used to be traditionally cooked in September and October during the hunting season. Even today, in the small town of Zane near Vicenza, a ‘bigoli with duck’ festival is held on the first Sunday of October.
At the feast, bigoli is first served with a duck meat sauce and then the duck is served separately. In keeping with tradition, they also cook the pasta in the duck broth, rather than in water. I've never tried it this way but, apparently, this makes the whole dish a lot tastier.
Nowadays many people use ground duck meat to make a sauce very similar to normal meat ragu, but usually without tomatoes. That recipe is, of course, extremely lean and obviously healthier!
However, to be honest I feel it’s cheating a bit and doesn’t have the same flavor as other methods of making duck ragu.
Ingredients
- Duck: I used two duck legs and two duck thighs. You can buy these separately pre-prepared or prep a whole duck, which is a little more work but will save you money. It's also best to use the bone-in duck thighs as the duck bones will add a lot of richness to the ragu.
- Bigoli Pasta: Bigoli is a usually fresh pasta, mostly eaten in Veneto. It looks like very thick spaghetti and is about 3-4mm in diameter. If you can't source bigoli, you can substitute it with spaghettoni or spaghetti.
- Extra Virgin Olive Oil: However, it doesn't need to be very expensive or cold-pressed since the oil will be heated at a high temperature to sear the duck.
- Celery, Onion, Carrots, and Garlic: Collectively known as 'soffritto' in Italian cooking, these ingredients form the foundational flavor base. It's important to chop these finely to help them seamlessly integrate into the sauce.
- White Wine: Use a dry white wine to better balance the richness of the duck. If you want to avoid using alcohol, you can omit it.
- Tomato Paste: Adds a rich tomato flavor to the sauce. Sometimes you will find tomato paste labeled as tomato concentrate, depending on the region.
- Chicken Broth: Feel free to use homemade, store-bought broth or quality chicken stock cubes.
- Fresh Herbs: Use fresh herbs over dried herbs. The fresh sage, rosemary, and bay leaf will really help the duck ragu achieve its authentic and rich flavor.
- Parmigiano Reggiano: Once plated, you can top the duck pasta with some grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano for an extra umami boost.
Expert Tips
Deglaze the Pan: If there are any brown bits after searing the duck, deglaze the pan after you add the wine. Scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden or plastic spatula or spoon will lift these flavorful bits, integrating them into the sauce for an enhanced depth of flavor.
Achieving the perfect sauce consistency: Add more wine or broth if your sauce becomes overly thick during the slow cook. Then, if the sauce is too thick after you have added the pasta, mix in a little of the reserved pasta water. On the other hand, if it's too thin, simmer until it reduces to your desired consistency.
Cooking Al Dente Pasta: Cooking pasta to that ideal 'al dente' is simple if you follow these steps.
1) First, bring a large pot of water to a boil. When it's boiling, season the water well with salt and wait for it to return to a rolling boil.
2) Add your pasta and ensure to give it a good stir periodically. This stops the pasta from sticking together and ensures it cooks evenly.
3) Then, 1-2 minutes before the pasta package suggests it's al dente time, start tasting the pasta in 45-60 second intervals until it's ready.
Follow this method and you will have a foolproof way of having al dente pasta every time.
Step by Step Instructions
1) Heat oil in a sturdy pot or deep frying pan. Season duck with salt and pepper. Place them skin side down in the pot and sear until browned and crisp. Turn to brown on the other side.
2) Transfer the duck to a deep pot or Dutch oven. Then drain all but about 1 tablespoon of the fat from the pan.
3) On a medium-low heat, add celery, onion, and carrot to the pan. Stir occasionally until softened, which usually takes around 10 minutes. Mix in garlic and cook for an additional minute.
4) Pour in wine, set heat to high, and let it reduce by half.
5) Add broth, tomato paste, sage, rosemary, and bay leaf. Mix well and bring the sauce to a boil.
6) Pour the sauce into the pot with the duck. Cover and let simmer until meat is tender, around 1.5 to 2 hours.
Note: If sauce thickens too much, add wine or broth as needed.
7) Once done, remove the duck and set it aside. Skim off excess fat from the sauce. If the sauce is too thin, simmer it until it reaches your desired consistency.
8) When the duck has cooled enough to be shredded, discard its skin. Detach meat from bones and shred or cut it into small pieces.
9) Add the meat back to the sauce and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper as needed.
10) For serving, boil a pot of water. Add salt then the pasta and cook until al dente as per package instructions (or 6-8 minutes if homemade bigoli). Before draining, set aside a cup of pasta water.
11) Toss the cooked pasta with the duck ragù. If needed, add some pasta water to adjust consistency.
12) Serve with additional duck ragù on top, garnished with Parmigiano Reggiano.
Storage and Leftovers
To store: Allow the duck ragu and pasta to cool, then transfer it into an airtight container. It will stay good quality in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. You can also store the duck ragu separately for up to 3 days in the refrigerator or in the freezer for 3 months.
To reheat: Place the duck ragu pasta into a microwave-safe dish, cover with a lid or plastic wrap and reheat until hot throughout.
FAQs
Absolutely! Duck ragù's flavor even deepens when made a day in advance. Store it in the fridge in an airtight container and reheat gently on the stovetop, stirring occasionally, before serving with freshly made pasta. This method is perfect for busy hosts planning dinner parties or family gatherings.
If yours feels too thin, simmer it uncovered on medium heat until thickened. This will allow excess liquid to evaporate, thickening the sauce. Remember, the ragù will also thicken slightly upon adding the pasta. This is because the starch in the pasta binds with the sauce.
More Recipes You May Like
My Italian hubby who has lived in Veneto for more than 30 years, told me it was the best bigoli with duck he'd ever eaten, and he's eaten it many, many times before! So, I hope you enjoy the recipe too! If you love duck and pasta, check out some of my other recipes:
If you make this duck ragu pasta recipe, I’d love to hear how it turns out and if you liked it. Please leave a comment here on the blog or on The Pasta Project Facebook page.
Looking forward to hearing from you!
Buon appetito!
(This recipe post was first published in 2017, but has been updated)
Venetian Duck Ragu with Bigoli Pasta
Ingredients
- 1 duck cut into quarters or duck pieces (I used 2 legs and a breast)
- 2 celery stalks finely chopped
- 1 small onion finely chopped
- 2 carrots finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves finely chopped
- ½ cup white wine
- 1 cup chicken broth I used 1 stock cube
- 3 tablespoon tomato paste
- 1 tablespoon fresh sage chopped
- 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary chopped
- 1 fresh bay leaf
- 3-4 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
- 1.1 lbs pasta fresh bigoli or thick spaghetti
- parmigiano reggiano for serving
- salt for pasta, to season duck and to taste
- black pepper to season duck and to taste
Instructions
- Heat oil in a sturdy pot or deep frying pan. Season duck with salt and pepper. Place them skin side down in the pot and sear until browned and crisp. Turn to brown on the other side.
- Transfer the duck to a deep pot or Dutch oven. Then drain all but about 1 tablespoon of the fat from the pan.
- On a medium-low heat, add celery, onion, and carrot to the pan. Stir occasionally until softened, which usually takes around 10 minutes. Mix in garlic and cook for an additional minute.
- Pour in wine, set heat to high, and let it reduce by half.
- Add broth, tomato concentrate, sage, rosemary, and bay leaf. Mix well and bring the sauce to a boil.
- Pour the sauce into the pot with the duck. Cover and let simmer until meat is tender, around 1.5 to 2 hours. If sauce thickens too much, add wine or broth as needed.
- Once done, remove the duck and set it aside. Skim off excess fat from the sauce. If the sauce is too thin, simmer it until it reaches your desired consistency.
- When the duck has cooled enough to be shredded, discard its skin. Detach meat from bones and shred or cut it into small pieces.
- Add the meat back to the sauce and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper as needed.
- For serving, boil a pot of water. Add salt then the pasta and cook until al dente as per package instructions (or 6-8 minutes if homemade bigoli). Before draining, set aside a cup of pasta water.
- Toss the cooked pasta with the duck ragù. If needed, add some pasta water to adjust consistency.
- Serve with additional duck ragù on top, garnished with Parmigiano Reggiano.
Notes
- Storage: Allow the duck ragu and pasta to cool before placing it inside an airtight container. It will then keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
- How to thin the ragu: If your ragu is too thick, add a bit of broth or pasta water to achieve your desired consistency.
- How to thicken the ragu: If the ragu feels too thin, simmer it uncovered on medium heat until it reaches your preferred thickness. The sauce will also naturally thicken slightly upon adding the pasta due to the starch.
Nutrition
Pin for Later:
If you are interested in learning how to make other homemade pasta and different types of gnocchi, check out my shop page for some great video online courses from my friends in Rome!
Nothing beats learning to make pasta from Italians! Plus while you’re there why not order a copy of one of my pasta recipe cookbooks or checkout some recommended pasta making tools?
veenaazmanov says
Your recipe is a must try. Weekend sounds like the perfect time. Gone thru all the detailing. Cant wait to get going. Yum
Russell Wheeler says
I like the look of this and, yes, some "Cheffy" chefs don't really understand Italian food and pass on myths without thought. This reminds me a little of papardelle alla lepre which I used to make when I was in the UK and wild hare was relatively easy to find on farmers markets during the shooting season.
Now I am in SW France the chasseurs here tend to keep things like that to themselves and they rarely appear in stores or markets. But there is lots of duck, of course, and so I will shift to this I think once the colder weather rolls in. I rather fancy trying it with confit of duck but still allowing the ragu to cook a long time despite that the duck doesn't need it. I will also swap a good red wine for white I think and maybe a little tomato pulp. Thanks for the ideas.
Jacqui says
Thanks for your comment Russell! Pappardelle con lepre is on my to recipes to publish list. It's popular during the hunting season here too! I'm happy to hear you want to try this bigoli with duck recipe. I think red wine works well too. Do let me know what you think once you make it!
Jagruti's Cooking Odyssey says
Never heard of duck ragu before but pasta is my all time comfort food, loving all the spices you have added in this recipe.
Uma Srinivas says
I love the herbs you used here sage and rosemary are my favorite ones. This recipe is new to me but sounds amazing!
Mama Maggie's Kitchen says
My mouth is literally watering. My family would love this.. I can't wait to bring my family in Veneto!
Alyssa says
I've been dreaming of going back to Italy, but while I wait for travel restrictions to ease up, at least I can still eat the food! This dish is heavenly and authentic.
Marta says
I'm always looking for new ways to prepare duck and this ragu looks like a winner! Thanks for another hit recipe!
Candice says
I love anything duck so I had to try this... it's delicious! Such a simple way to cook the duck for the ragu, too. We all loved it and will be making it again!
Amanda says
This is a wonderful ragu! The duck really makes it feel fancy and worthy of company. It came out perfectly tender and flavorful.
Andrea Howe says
I always feel like I take a mini trip with your recipes and I always learn so much! This duck dish looks AMAZING...going to have to give it a try 🙂
Gourmet Vegetarians says
This looks to die for! Not going to lie, before we became vegetarian duck was our weakness. Duck ragu has got to be one of the tastiest duck dishes out there! The long process is always worth it for a meal like this. Also you are really making us miss authentic Italian food!
Shelley says
Ok - so WOW - if your hubby says this is the best bigoli with duck he's ever eaten, I feel like that's REALLY saying something! Since I probably will never have the fun of attending Zane's bigoli with duck festival (which sounds wonderful!), this is probably the closest I can ever hope to get lol! Normally, I'd be tempted to use the faster shortcut of ground duck, so I'm glad you made the case that it's really worth it to do it "right" and take the extra time with this recipe - thanks bunches!
Antoinette Bilocca says
Can you tell me how to get the fat off from ducks and chicken dishes I tried with bread slices and didn’t find it so good thank you love your recipes. Antoinette
Jacqui says
Hi Antoinette. Thanks for your comment. I'm happy you like my recipes! Re duck and chicken fat. I agree it can be difficult and depends on what you are making. In general, with sauce or stock, I allow it to cool and then remove the fat that has formed on the surface with a slotted spoon. I once read that once the sauce has cooled a little if you put in some ice-cubes the fat will coagulate around the ice cube and you can lift it out. But, I've never tried that!
mimi rippee says
I have never had or made duck ragu. Now I must! thank you for the recipe!
Jason Conde says
Preparing the best pasta can be really difficult at first. It was almost impossible for us to master how to do it without proper step-by-step tutorial from the professional chefs.
I’ve watched hundreds of tutorials online, but nothing beats the simple, clear-to-the-cut video of Gordon Ramsey.
Jacqui says
Dear Jason. I had to remove your link as it wasn't secure! But Gordon Ramsey does something when he cooks pasta which Italians almost never do!! He adds olive oil to the cooking water! This is not good because the oil coats the pasta and then the pasta doesn't absorb the sauce!! Italians only do this when cooking dried lasagne sheets (for example) as they tend to stick together and it's difficult to separate them to make lasagna with them.
Matt says
And not to mention the peas and cream in his carbonara - I wish he'd quit posting videos of his 'Italian' dishes...
Neha says
Now this is absolutely my kind of lunch. I love the combination of spices you ised in the recipe, I can almost taste it.
Jacqui says
Thank you so much Neha! This bigoli with duck is fabulous! I hope you'll try it!
Timbo says
This one is as good as it gets. Thanks for this absolutely amazing recipe. Loved it
Analida Braeger says
This has my mouth watering , I have never had duck ragu before but now I know I need it !
Jacqui says
Grazie Analida! Yes seriously mouth watering! Duck ragu is really delicious!
Danielle says
Finally a good bigoli with duck recipe. I've been searching for it for such a long time! Time to try this recipe - I have all the ingredients that I need for it!
Jacqui says
I'm thrilled you're going to make this recipe for bigoli with duck Danielle! You won't be disappointed, I promise you!
Jenni LeBaron says
I've never had a duck ragu before, but both the fella and I love duck, love ragu, and love pasta so I'm positive this would be delicious for both of us! I appreciate that you've included plenty of herbs too because my garden is finally starting to produce plenty!
Jacqui says
If you love duck and pasta, you'll love this dish Jenni! Using herbs from your own the garden will add to the flavour!
Rebecca Blackwell says
I've never had great luck cooking duck. It often turns out tough and chewy, but I'm thinking I just haven't had a good recipe. This looks absolutely delicious, so I'm going to give it a shot. I'll let you know how it goes! Thank you for sharing this recipe as well as all the helpful tips!
Jacqui says
I agree Rebecca, duck can be tricky! But this duck ragu is so good! Looking forward to hearing how yours turned out!