Bigoli with Duck Ragu from Veneto.
Bigoli with duck ragu is a traditional dish here in Veneto where I live. In fact, if you are visiting the region you are bound to find it on offer in many restaurants. It is also often cooked by the Venetians on holidays or feast days. I have eaten duck ragu many times, but this was my first time cooking it!
I bigoli con l’anatra.
Bigoli is a usually fresh pasta, mostly eaten in Veneto. It‘s made with flour, eggs (often duck eggs), salt, water or milk and sometimes butter. It looks like very thick spaghetti and is about 3-4mm in diameter. Traditionally this pasta was made with a press called a torchio or bigolaro which had to be wound by hand as the pasta dough passed through the holes in the bottom. I have written more about the history of bigoli and the bigolaro in another post.
Traditional bigoli with duck ragu.
Bigoli is most often eaten with various fat-rich sauces, the most well-known bigoli recipe is duck ragu. In the past, the traditional recipe for this ragu involved cooking the pasta in a fatty broth in which a young duck had been boiled. The Venetians then made a sauce with flavored butter and the offal of the duck, which they ate with the bigoli. The duck itself was eaten after.
A bigoli with duck ragu festival!
This duck pasta dish used to be traditionally cooked in September and October during the hunting season. Even today, in the small town of Zane near Vicenza, a ‘bigoli with duck’ festival is held on the first Sunday of October. At the feast, bigoli is first served with duck meat sauce and then the duck is served separately. In keeping with tradition, they also cook the pasta in the duck broth, rather than in water. I’ve never tried it this way but, apparently, this makes the whole dish a lot tastier.
Nowadays many people use ground duck meat to make a sauce very similar to normal meat ragu, but usually without tomatoes. That recipe is, of course, extremely lean and obviously healthier! However, to be honest I feel it’s cheating a bit and doesn’t have the same flavour as other methods of making duck ragu.
Different ways to make the duck ragu!
There are a number of other ways of preparing duck ragu. Some people roast a whole bird, then add the meat to the sauce. Others use only the breast which has been finely chopped and cook it in the sauce. I decided to use duck pieces (2 legs and a breast). A whole quartered duck can be cooked the same way. I browned the duck and then cooked it in the sauce for 2 hours. Once it was ready, I removed the duck, allowed it to cool and then cut the meat into very small pieces. Before returning the meat to the pan, I also skimmed most of the fat from the sauce.
The best duck ragu my hubby has ever eaten!
It turned out to be a long process, although it’s possible to get on with other things whilst the sauce is simmering! However, it was well worth the time spent as it turned out a lot tastier than many of the versions I have eaten made with minced duck or just duck breast. My hubby, who comes from Sicily but has lived in Veneto for more than 30 years, told me it was the best bigoli with duck he’d ever eaten and he’s eaten it many many times! So I’m feeling pretty chuffed right now! Check out this traditional bigoli recipe below and enjoy!
If you make this duck pasta recipe, I’d love to hear how it turns out and if you liked it. Please leave a comment here on the blog or on The Pasta Project Facebook page.
Looking forward to hearing from you!
Buon appetito!
Another delicious bigoli recipe you may like is Bigoli with sausage ragu. Click this link to check it out. Recipe Bigoli with luganega sausage
If you like this recipe you may also like Bigoli with farmyard ragu made with duck, guinea fowl and stewing hen!
(This recipe post was first published in 2017, but has been updated)
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Bigoli with Duck Ragu
Ingredients
- 1 duck cut into quarters or duck pieces (I used 2 legs and a breast)
- 2 celery stalks peeled and finely chopped
- 1 small onion finely chopped
- 2 carrots finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves finely chopped
- 1/2 cup white wine
- 1 cup chicken broth I used 1 stock cube
- 3 tbsp tomato concentrate
- 1 tbsp fresh sage chopped
- 1 tbsp fresh rosemary chopped
- 1 fresh bay leaf or 1/2 tsp dried
- 3-4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 500 g fresh bigoli (1.1 lbs) or thick spaghetti
- Freshly grated parmigiano or grana cheese for serving
- salt for pasta, to season duck and to taste
- black pepper to season duck and to taste
Instructions
- Heat the oil in a heavy-duty pot or deep frying pan.
- Season the duck pieces with salt and pepper and place them skin side down in the pot.
- Sear until the skin is browned and crisp.
- Turn the pieces over and brown the other sides
- Remove the duck and pour off all but about 1 tablespoon of the rendered fat and discard
- Reduce the heat to medium low and add the celery, onion, and carrot.
- Cook, stirring frequently until the vegetables are softened.
- Add the garlic and cook for about 1 minute.
- Pour in the wine and increase the heat to high.
- Boil until wine is reduced by 1/2, then reduce the heat to medium.
- Add the broth, tomato concentrate, sage, rosemary and bay leaf, stirring to combine.
- Return the duck to the pot and bring the liquid to a boil.
- Reduce the heat to low, just enough to maintain a gentle simmer.
- Cover the pot and simmer until the meat is tender, approx 1.5 to 2 hours. Be careful not to let the duck dry out.
- If the sauce starts to dry out add more white wine or chicken broth.
- Remove the duck from the pot and set aside until cool enough to handle.
- Skim the excess fat from the top of the sauce with a large spoon.
- If the sauce seems thin, continue simmering until thickened to desired consistency.
- Discard the duck skin and cut the meat off the leg bones.
- Shred or cut all the duck meat into very small pieces
- Add the meat to the sauce.
- Let the sauce simmer gently for 10 minutes.
- Remove the bay leaf and season to taste with salt and pepper.
- When ready to serve, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat.
- Cook the bigoli al dente according to the instructions on the packet if store bought. 6-8 minutes if homemade
- Reserve about 1 cup of the cooking water and then drain the pasta.
- Return the pasta to the pot and toss it with some of the ragù, adding a little of the pasta cooking water if it seems dry.
- Serve the pasta with more ragù spooned over the top, sprinkled with the grated cheese.
Notes
It can also be eaten with other types of long pasta such as tagliatelle, thick spaghetti or bucatini
Nutrition
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Paula Montenegro says
You always post the most delicious looking pasta dishes! I love ragu with all my heart. Thanks for this recipe.
The Pasta Project says
Thank you so much Paula! There is so much delicious food to share.
Eva says
Looks delicious! I have never had the courage to cook duck. It’s just not very common here and probably rather expensive. But your recipe seems worth it, it does look really delicious. Love the idea of also using a duck’s egg inthe pasta!
The Pasta Project says
Take the plunge Eva, you won’t be disappointed!
Nicolas Hortense says
Wow this duck ragu looks absolutely amazing! Duck is one of my favourites but I have never seen it like this before!
The Pasta Project says
Thank you Nicolas, if you love duck, then you will love this recipe!
Alisha Rodrigues says
I love all the flavor you’ve got in there. This one’s totally my kinda food.. A plate full of deliciousness
The Pasta Project says
Thank you, Alisha! Hope you try it and love it!
April says
I love experimenting with traditional recipes – they are always as good as a recipe can get! And it’s been a while since I had duck – so two in one here!
The Pasta Project says
That is very true April!
Heather says
I haven’t attempted to make duck at home but this looks reason to get some! I love authentic pasta dishes like this that bring me back to my time in Italy 🙂 Delish!
The Pasta Project says
Yes, you can recreate your own little bit of Italy in your kitchen!
Veena Azmanov says
I have never tried or eaten duck, so this sounds interesting and delicious. A must try option for the family.
The Pasta Project says
Duck is so good Veena! Hope you get to try it.
Amanda says
I have a serious love for duck, so I can’t believe I’ve never had duck ragu! I’m excited to change that — I know this will be super delicious.
Cathleen @ A Taste of Madness says
I’m going to Italy next week, so I am looking to try some traditional dishes. I will make sure to keep an eye out for this, because it looks so good!!
Jenni LeBaron says
I love the look of this pasta dish and all of the big flavors that went into the ragu. I also love that you made something that is so culturally relevant in your town. It makes me contemplate what my area’s dish would be.
Cheese Curd In Paradise says
I have not tried bigoli before, but it sounds really good! I love duck, and the flavors of this ragu sound so delicious!
Stine Mari says
This looks amazing! And congratulations on making the best duck ragu ever! And I can totally see why, the ingredients and process MUST make this delicious!
Kelly Anthony says
Do you suggest a dry white wine for this duck ragu recipe?
Jeannette (Jay Joy) says
Thank you you so much for telling us about the two different ways to make the duck ragu!
John Maguire says
I live in south west France where duck is eaten regularly- one specialty here is duck sausage- the best types come from local duck producers, it not too finely chopped or as an alternative I will try using preserved duck leg. I will let you know how it turns out.
Sondria says
This sounds so good. I’m sure the duck add a deep flavor to this dish. Next time I get duck I’m going to have try this dish.
Stephanie Simmons says
I don’t think I’ve ever made duck but it sounds yummy!
camila hurst says
I’ve never tried duck before! Wonder if it’s gonna taste as delicious as you make it look!
Casey says
The flavors in this recipe look absolutely spectacular! Love it!!
Stine Mari says
Fun fact; I’ve never tasted duck. But why not? This looks amazing.