A creamy fettuccine recipe named after a Pope.
Pasta alla papalina is a creamy pasta recipe from Rome named after Pope Pius XII, who was the inspiration behind its invention. Usually made with fettuccine, this dish is super simple to make and a great way to use up leftover ham!
Italians love to talk about food and there is often a lot of discussion about what the authentic ingredients of certain traditional recipes should be. Among the many food and wine debates I’ve heard, a common one involves one of the jewels of Roman pasta recipes, fettuccine alla papalina.
People debate what cheese to use, pecorino Romano or Parmigiano? Which type of ham, cured or cooked ham? Use cream or not? Add peas or no peas? In order to understand why all these questions, it’s good to know the history of this relatively modern dish. Simply put, ‘alla papalina’ means ‘of the Pope’. But, actually the word 'papalina' refers to the Pope’s skullcap! The Pope in question was Eugenio Pacelli known as Pius XII.
A little alla papalina history.
Eugenio Pacelli became Pope Pius XII in 1939. There are different versions to this story. But, one is that when he was still a cardinal, Eugenio Pacelli used to eat his meals at the La Cisterna restaurant in Rome. One day, he asked the chef to make him a different pasta dish than usual, one which respected Roman culinary tradition but was less fatty and more digestible than other traditional recipes.
Apparently, the chef then created this pasta alla papalina based on ‘alla carbonara’. He replaced the semolina pasta with egg pasta, guanciale with cured ham, Roman pecorino with Parmigiano cheese and added sautéed onion cooked in butter. However, the raw beaten eggs in carbonara remained.
The main problem with this story is that if it happened before the war, then the belief that carbonara was invented for American soldiers when they occupied Rome is false! Other stories date the invention of pasta alla papalina to the 50s, when Eugenio Pacelli was Pope Pius XII. The chef in question then was the Vatican chef!
Whichever version is true, today, fettuccine alla papalina is considered a traditional Roman pasta recipe. This dish is also still on the menu of the La Cisterna restaurant.
Different versions of the recipe.
Obviously with all the debate, there are different versions of this pasta alla papalina recipe. However, the basics are mostly the same; Egg pasta noodles (usually fettuccine), ham often cured but many people use cooked ham, eggs and cheese. Peas may not be considered an authentic ingredient in this dish by some, but I have seen many versions with them.
I added peas because they are in season now and they are a health addition to this delicious dish. Some recipes for this alla papalina include heavy cream, some don’t. I added the cream and loved the result. I think you will too!
Making this pasta alla papalina.
I also decided to use cooked ham instead of cured. Many people traditionally eat ham at Easter or other holidays, especially in US. Fettuccine alla papalina is a great recipe to use up leftover ham. However, if you prefer you can use prosciutto crudo, such as San Daniele or Parma ham.
This is a very quick and easy to make recipe. In fact, you can make the sauce while boiling the water for the pasta. Like in carbonara, the beaten eggs are added after the cooked pasta and sauce are mixed together. The result is a very creamy and flavourful pasta dish. One that I’m sure you will make time and again!
If you do try this pasta alla papalina recipe, I’d love to hear what you think. Please write a comment here on the blog or post a comment on the Pasta Project Facebook page.
Your feedback means a lot to me!
Buon Appetito!
Other traditional pasta recipes from Rome.
2. Cacio e pepe
6. Romanesco broccoli pasta soup
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Pasta alla Papalina: Recipe from Rome
Ingredients
- 400 g fettuccine or tagliatelle (14 oz) fresh or dried
- 1 small onion peeled and finely chopped
- 250 g peas (8-9oz) fresh or frozen
- 300 g cooked ham (10oz) or cured ham
- 200-250 ml heavy cream (1 cup)
- 2-3 eggs depending on size. If large use 2
- 200 g Parmigiano cheese (7oz) grated
- 1 knob butter or olive oil
- salt for pasta and to taste
- black pepper to taste
Instructions
- Shell the fresh peas (if using), peel and finely chop the onion, cut the ham into small cubes/pieces, beat the eggs in a bowl with the grated Parmigiano.
- If using fresh peas you will need to cook them in a little boiling salted water for 10 minutes before draining and adding them to the sauce. Fresh peas take longer to cook than frozen.
- Put a pot of water on to boil for the pasta. Add salt once it starts to boil and bring to the boil again.
- Cook the finely chopped onion in the butter or olive oil in a skillet or frying pan until translucent. Add cooked ham or prosciutto, and allow that to cook for a few minutes. Then, add the peas and cook for a couple of minutes more. If using fresh peas and they seem a little hard, add a little water and cook for a bit longer.
- Then add the heavy cream (Italians use panna da cucina) and allow the cream to reduce a bit. Add ground black pepper and salt to taste.
- Cook the pasta al dente according to the instructions on the packet. Fresh pasta will need only 1-2 minutes. When cooked, drain the pasta (but keep it a little wet) and add it to the cream sauce.
- Then pour the beaten eggs and cheese over the pasta and sauce. Mix everything together well until the pasta is coated in a creamy sauce. Serve immediately, with generous sprinkling of ground black pepper and additional grated cheese if required.
Notes
Nutrition
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If you are interested in learning how to make homemade pasta and different types of gnocchi, check out my shop page for some great video online courses from my friends in Rome! Nothing beats learning to make pasta from Italians! Plus while you’re there why not order a copy of my autumn/winter pasta recipes cookbook!?
Marcus J. Swift says
Great article and a great dish! I love the history of these things, and that's why I was looking for it, and found your article. There are, or so I'm told, three versions of Carbonara. The original, which you reference in this article, the Papalina, and a later version apparently called Europa, which I am struggling to find any information about on the net. Have you ever heard of this, Jacqui?
By the way, I'm loving your page, and will be subscribing to your newsletter, as soon as I post this comment. I have a branch of my family in Italy, in the region around Lago di Garda, as my Uncle emigrated in the 1960s, so I have an Italian Aunt, and three Anglo-Italian Cousins, with their families. Hence, I love all things Italian, and have visited my family a number of times. A wonderful country with wonderful people.
Danny Flenley says
Great article and practical recipe, though I think I'd get bored of the dish quite quickly (maybe that's me, though). Thanks for sharing it! Review coming up on chipmunkkalahari.wordpress.com food tour of Europe soon.
Kevin Hangman says
Guess my execution was not good. Sauce curdled. Tasted great right up till I added the eggs…
Jacqui says
Hi Kevin, thanks for your comment. I'm sorry to hear your sauce didn't turn out well. I'm not sure what you mean by curdled. Do you mean the eggs got scrambled? This can happen if the sauce is hot and the eggs start to cook before you can mix them into the cream sauce. It shouldn't affect the taste but the dish won't look as nice.
kit says
next time temper the egg mixuture before adding it in, add a little of the warm pasta water to the egg and cheese mixture first and then when you add it to the dish the eggs won't scramble.
Thales says
Glad I found this recipe. This was amazing! Thanks
Agnes says
This is seriously good stuff! I am making this again , this time I will add cut up asparagus at the end of cooking pasta.
I've also tried it with pieces of bacon instead of ham. Fried them up a little to get rid of the fat before adding to the sauce.
Jacqui says
Hi Agnes, I'm happy to hear you like this pasta alla papalina recipe! I love the idea of adding asparagus. I think that would be really good!
Jennifer Mahan says
It was DELICIOUS!! So creamy but not overly heavy, I added a few more sautéed veggies and was nervous about the eggs but it all came together and the bubbling hot sauce mixed with the hot pasta cooked the eggs. What a meal, so yummy!!
Sharyn Frisbie says
Can't wait to try this with Easter Ham looming in the future. Since we are sheltering in place in Atlanta, Georgia, USA, there will be no grandsons (8 + 10) along with their parents to help us finish it off.
Enjoyed your garden and am so jealous of your Peony tree and others. The only sunny spot in my yard has a pool (not complaining but would like a vegetable garden. I do have lots of potted plants on our back deck which lifts my spirits amidst the pollen and sheltering.
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Glad to hear that the end might be approaching for you and hope ours will follow soon. In the meantime I'll keep making homemade pasta and baking for just 2 of us. Stay safe and keep those lovely Italian pictures coming.
Sharyn Frisbie
Jacqui says
Hi Sharyn, so nice of you to respond to my newsletter! This recipe is definitely perfect for leftover Easter ham! I'm sure you'll love it! Yes my peony tree really is special! But I'm jealous of your pool! I'd love to have one! Having a garden or outdoor space really helps during these lockdowns. Although the Itaian government has now extended the lockdown to May 3rd, we continue to be hopeful that life will start returning to normal soon! As I'm sure it will for you too! All the best!
Colleen says
This pasta dish looks so delicious, creamy and hearty. It will for sure be a hit with my family, and I have all the ingredients, too! Thanks for sharing.
Kelly Anthony says
I love peas in my pasta and this recipe looks heavenly. I can't wait to make this for my family.
Michal says
I love the paste and peas combo, and thst looks so rich!
Jacqui says
Thanks Michael! I love pasta with peas too, especially fresh peas!